User guide to custom keyboard building:
KEYBOARD SIZES
Full Size 100% A full size keyboard includes every key : all function keys, a number pad, navigation such as the F1-F12 row, and arrow keys. Best for business environments, accounting, or anyone who relies heavily on the number pad. Takes up the most desk space but offers the most functionality out of the box.
Tenkeyless (TKL) 80% The most popular layout for a reason. Removes the number pad but keeps everything else including function keys and the navigation. Frees up significant desk space for mouse movement while keeping all the keys most people actually use daily.
75% Compact but surprisingly functional. Keeps function keys and arrows but squishes everything closer together with minimal gaps. Great balance between size and usability, popular with people who want a small keyboard without losing too many keys.
65% Drops the function row but keeps arrow keys and a few other navigation keys. Very popular in the custom and gaming keyboard community. Forces you to use key combinations for function keys but the smaller size is worth it for many.
60% The bare minimum just the alphanumeric keys, modifiers, and nothing else. No function row, no arrows, no number pad. Everything is accessed through layers and key combinations (extra software may be required). Extremely compact, great for travel or minimal desk setups. Has a massive modding and custom community around it. Gaming stock options are often 60-65%.
40% For the truly dedicated minimalist. Drops even the number row. Almost everything requires a key combination. Not recommended for beginners but beloved by enthusiasts who invest time in learning their layout. Unique tools and materials may be needed.
SWITCH TYPES (Thock vs Click)
Linear Switches: Smooth and consistent key actuation from top to bottom with no bump or click. Quiet and fast, making them popular for gaming and office environments. Common examples include Cherry MX Red, Gateron Yellow, and the beloved Holy Pandas (Glorious) in their linear variants. Great for fast typists.
Tactile Switches: Have a noticeable bump mid-press that lets you know the key has been actuated without bottoming out. No audible click but you feel the feedback. Popular for typing because you can develop a rhythm with them. Cherry MX Brown is the most common but enthusiasts often prefer Boba U4 or Topre for a more pronounced tactile bump. Recommended for regular typing use and business like environments.
Clicky Switches: Both a tactile bump AND an audible click sound on each key actuation. Satisfying to type on but loud and clicky not great for shared spaces or offices. Cherry MX Blue is the most recognized. Keyboard enthusiasts often go for Kailh Box White or Jade for a crisper click mechanism. Personal recommendation for loud switches are Lynx switches from Glorious Gaming.
Optical Switches: Use light instead of physical contact to register key actuation. Faster actuation and theoretically longer lifespan since there are fewer moving parts making contact. Growing in popularity especially in gaming keyboards, however hall effect has taken over making it slightly outdated.
Hall Effect Switches: Use magnets to register key actuation. Extremely durable, no contact wear, and most need supporting software that allows full customization for actuation points in each key and other features (rapid trigger). Cutting edge technology becoming more mainstream, can be expensive in stock and custom. Personal recommendation for anyone who wants the best software and model of switches for competitive gaming are the Wooting Keyboards (60HE v2, 80HE).
KEYCAPS
ABS Plastic: The most common and affordable keycap material. Smooth finish, takes color well, and is compatible with almost everything. Downside is it develops a shiny worn look over time called “shine” from finger oils. Most stock keyboards ship with ABS.
PBT Plastic: The preferred material for enthusiasts. More durable than ABS, resistant to shine, has a slightly textured matte feel, and produces a deeper sound when typing (slightly more thock). More expensive but worth the upgrade for anyone serious about their build quality, unnoticeable to most.
Keycap Profiles: The profile refers to the shape and height of the keycaps. Common profiles include OEM (standard on most keyboards), Cherry (slightly shorter, very popular for gaming), SA (tall and spherical, retro feel), DSA (uniform flat profile), and KAT (a taller rounded profile). Each keycap profile can slightly changes how typing feels and sounds. Most switches will allow any type of keycap, stock keyboards however, may not.
Ceramic Coating: A popular new type of keycap, some are pure ceramic others are coated in a thin layer. These keycaps are very thick and resonate a ‘thocky’ sound, new and popular makes them expensive and limited. Key caps are incredibly smooth and durable but can crack and makes replacement difficult.
**Important to note that some stock keyboards are not hot-swappable (switches are permanent) and may not allow further deconstruction.**